The early history of Nubia, in the far north of Sudan, is intertwined with the history of Egypt. Egypt was the world’s first sizeable state created around 3,000BC and built a string of forts along its umbilical cord, the Nile, with its access to slaves, gold, copper, ivory, ebony and much else from central and eastern Africa. The Duffufa, an enigmatic structure at Dongola dating from 2,500 BC, is still standing there as if to provide the evidence.

The Nubians were at the same time a part of the Egyptian empire and a threat to it. Indeed the Nubians were strong enough around 1,000 BC to rule Egypt – an empire that stretched over 2,000kms of the Nile and lasted for nearly 1,000 years. This is one of Africa’s greatest civilisations and was once the strongest power in Africa after Egypt. It also became the heart of a millennium-long Christian civilisation. Impressive and fascinating reminders of these past civilisations can be seen in the artefacts liberally scattered along the banks of the Nile.

Throughout the millennia slavery, concubinage and intermarriage have been accepted in the Sudan giving the people a wonderful mix of hues from the very pale to the very black. Racism in Sudan, clearly at the heart of the north south divide, is as a consequence more a perception of history and culture than colour. Today’s Nubians are a proud and ancient people, with their own language and distinctive culture. Even so travellers who have been to highland Ethiopia may find many similarities in the Nubian people, their music and their hospitality to foreigners.